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Post by john101477 on Oct 6, 2009 14:05:40 GMT -5
Ok getting ready to buy a "good" tripod. Like to hear everyones opinions on types of tripods. Aluminum vs carbon fiber, weight handling, max height, etc. Remeber I use a D90, soon possibly to be a D300s, 70-200 with a 1.7x added
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Post by NCPhotoTrekker on Oct 6, 2009 17:24:21 GMT -5
Here are some considerations to take into account when youa are selecting your tripod.
1. Make sure that fully extended the tripod will go above head level. I know that will be a task for you, but you will be surprised at how short a long tripod will become on rocks, or in water.
2. Get flip lock legs, not the concentric twist locks. The twist locks allow too much grit to get into the mechanism and will cause premature wear. The flip locks are more reliable and easier to manipulate.
3. Make sure that the legs are adjustable independently and will set in varying degrees. If all the legs are attached to the center colum, then you will find it difficult to set up on very uneven terrain.
4. Make sure that the tripod allows you to get down close to the ground. This is either done by a short center tube, or an alternate way of mounting the center tube. I know that this is a concern of yours.
5. Since you will be going out in the woods with your tripod, go for a light and strong metal. Aluminum is light, but too easy to bend. CF is a great material that is light and quite sturdy. My magfiber tripod helped me keep balance when I slipped on a rock on time. The legs spread slightly but did not bend or break.
6. Make sure that the tripod will support your heaviest equipment. Take into account flashes and such. Tripods are usually pretty sturdy when it comes to this...the head will usually be your weak link.
7. You mention the long lens with the teleconverter attached. Just be sure and use the tripod collar when you attach your camera to the head. This will make sure that everything stays balanced.
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Post by john101477 on Oct 6, 2009 18:38:34 GMT -5
ok here is my next question. I calculated the max weight that I could have on the tripod to be 5 lbs. 14 oz. thats camera, lense, converter, and flash, not sure if that includes batteries or not, guessing not.call it 7 lbs total. why do people buy tripods that can carry 17lbs? This also does not factor in the head. also advantages of 3 and 4 section legs?
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Post by jimhobson on Oct 6, 2009 19:13:30 GMT -5
Some cameras weigh more than yours. My Canon 1n w/28-70 2.8 weighs in at 7lb. Just camera and lens. My 70-200 2.8 weighs more. My 4x5 Graflex I use in the field is 9lb. Some 4x5s go up to 13lb with no attachments (finders, hoods, roll film backs, etc.) Some people still shoot 8x10 in the mountains. A Linhof 8x10 Kardan GT Camera weighs in at 16.5lb. I guess they are trying to say you can use almost anything on it. Good Marketing?? One size fits all??
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Post by john101477 on Oct 6, 2009 21:21:36 GMT -5
I see. The camera alone weights in at 22oz, 70-200 at 50 oz, speedlight at 8 oz, tele 4oz I think.
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OrcaBob
Lead Photographer
Frank Zappa lives
Posts: 394
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Post by OrcaBob on Oct 6, 2009 21:39:29 GMT -5
why do people buy tripods that can carry 17lbs? Probably for much the same reason why someone buys 25lb monofilament to catch a 7lb trout. If you lean on the tripod and/or hold down the camera, that's extra weight. If you use a centerweight to hold the tripod steady, that's extra weight. And then there's the fudge-factor. Why buy a 5lb-rated tripod for a 5lb load? Then it won't take much to make the tripod buckle. And if you're out in the middle of nowhere, breaking the tripod might mean the end of the shoot. It may also affect the warranty. Dive watches usually aren't warrantied for scuba use unless the watch is rated for 100 meters (330ft), even though it's EXTREMELY rare that anyone will ever go that deep on scuba. No recreational divers will ever go that deep (most won't ever go a third of that depth). But if dive watch manufacturers warrantied 30 meter watches for dive use, they'd be replacing a lot of watches. So to prevent breaking the tripod in the field (and possibly being told that the tripod was overloaded), it's less of a hassle to just get a beefier tripod.
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Post by john101477 on Oct 6, 2009 23:33:56 GMT -5
HAHAHA yeah I know how that works. Yeah it is just a matter of finding the right one now. seems as though everyone likes manfrotto. probably what I will get. The magfiber seems pretty cool. light, sturdy, not aluminum. I kind of wonder how the magnesium handles moisture. last thing I wanna do is spend $400 and end up with rust anywhere on the internal pieces.
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Post by NCPhotoTrekker on Oct 7, 2009 1:14:08 GMT -5
My magfiber tripod has been submerged past the lower flip locks on many occasions...today being one of them. There is no water related oxidation anywhere on the tripod, or the hardware.
The biggest difference between 3 and 4 leg sections is stability and strength. You get a sturdier mount with less sections, however, the trade is it collapses longer than the 4 section model. Again, it depends on where your priorities are. I keep mine partially extended when carrying so the length really isn't a major concern. However, keeping the camera as still as possible is a major concern. The less joints, the less possibility of the legs getting shaky.
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Post by john101477 on Oct 7, 2009 10:36:46 GMT -5
Thanks guys, I think that about wraps it for me. I have a ball head already, just got to make sure it will handle the load.
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